Where to eat in the Testaccio neighborhood of Rome
Last Updated on April 24, 2025 by admin
In a recent post about where to stay in Rome, I named Testaccio the best area for foodie travelers to the Eternal City. I don’t believe that there’s any other neighborhood that has a higher concentration of excellent places to eat.
I decided to dedicate a whole post to the topic of where to eat in Testaccio, because truly, it deserves one.
I’ve provided a bit of info about the history of the neighborhood as well as the logistics of getting there, and included a few things to see in between bites.
If you only have a short time to spend in Testaccio, fear not – I’ve broken my suggestions down into breakfast, lunch, aperitivo, and dinner, with advice on where to get pizza, too.
Some people may take issue with that fact that a few very well-loved and popular places do not appear on this list.
Of course, like all articles on “the best places to eat in X,” mine is subjective. Yes, there are a few places that some people love and I just don’t happen to like very much, or have perhaps had bad service at, or I think are overrated or overpriced. You will not see them here for those very reasons.
Instead, I’ve focused on the places I’ve been to multiple times and have always had great food and service at. If you think there’s a place to eat in Testaccio that deserves to be on this list but isn’t, by all means, share it in the comments! It could be that I just haven’t been there (or it could be on my blacklist for the aforementioned reasons, in which case, I will fight you – jk I’m a wimp don’t hurt me).
Enough rambling? Let’s get to it – here’s my list of where to eat (every meal) in the Testaccio neighborhood of Rome.
Where to eat in Testaccio
Summary of the area
In the second century BC, Testaccio became the site of a port along the Tiber. Goods were taken from boats and stored in warehouses there, and the ancient Romans also utilized the area to deposit broken amphorae (more on that below).
In the Middle Ages, the area became characterized by gardens and vineyards. After Italy’s unification in 1861, industrial plants sprang up, including a slaughterhouse, which still stands today (again, more below), and housing for the plant workers.
In the 1930s, Testaccio became a middle class neighborhood, and these days, it’s still considered to be traditionally Roman, but it’s also home to an international crowd.
Getting to Testaccio
A short walk from the Piramide metro, you can also take the tram 3 and various buses to Testaccio.
Places to see in Testaccio
Also known as the Protestant Cemetery (a misnomer, considering that it contains the graves of many non-Protestants as well), the Non-Catholic Cemetery one of the main sights to see in Testaccio.
Not only does it contain the gravestones of many significant figures (the Romantic poets Shelley and Keats, as well as a number of writers, diplomats, scholars and artists), it is also perhaps one of the most beautiful cemeteries in the world. Fruit and flower trees cascade over sculptural tombstones, many adorned with plaques paying tribute to the departed.
While temporarily closed at the time of writing, the Rome War Cemetery is due to reopen in March of 2025.
This cemetery contains the graves of 426 Commonwealth soldiers who died in the Italian Campaign of World War II.
As mentioned above, a slaughterhouse operated for many years in Testaccio, providing employment for locals and meat for the city. This included the offal that is found in many of the traditional Roman dishes that Testaccio (and Rome itself) is known for.
Built between 1888 and 1891, the complex was restored from 2006 to 2010. Since then, it has become a kind of cultural hub, now housing the Faculty of Architecture of Roma Tre University, a music school, a branch of the MACRO contemporary art museum, and soon, the Roman Academy of Fine Arts.
There, you’ll also find la Città dell’Altra Economia, a space that hosts sustainable pop-up markets, events and meetups, as well as a great restaurant – Il Collettivo Gastronomico di Testaccio (more below).
I’ve covered the market more extensively below as a must for lunch – you should absolutely not miss it if you’re in the neighborhood.
Not only will you find some of the best street food in the city, it’s also got cute stalls to shop around at, and you can get fresh produce and other groceries there, too.
Fifty-four meters high and a kilometer around, the Monte dei Cocci, or Monte Testaccio, is a kind of ancient dump. The Romans utilized the space to pile up broken amphorae that primarily transported oil from the river port into the city.
Normally, you can visit the Monte Testaccio as an individual or in a group, but it’s closed now for renovation work. You can still walk by it and take a peek on Via Galvani or you can see it the way I like to – over a plate of cacio e pepe inside Flavio al Velavevodetto, which has peekaboo windows onto the Monte in its dining rooms.
As you drink your spritz in Piazza Testaccio (more below), make sure you admire the central fountain, which pays tribute to the nearby Monte dei Cocci.
Enough history and sightseeing! Time to eat.
Where to eat breakfast in Testaccio
Via Marmorata 41
Any day that starts with a cornetto and cappuccino at this renowned bar/bakery is bound to be a good day. They also have cute little mignons if you want to sample multiple treats.
Via Nicola Zabaglia 9
This is perhaps my favorite place to go for Italian breakfast in Rome.
I went recently at the end of my pregnancy, and oh, how I wished I had gone more often to treat my growing self and my baby to a first breakfast of pizzette (small tomato-sauce-topped pizza either with or without a splotch of melted mozzarella) and a second breakfast of a ciambella (sugar-coated doughnut) or perhaps a maritozzo (whipped-cream-filled bun).
Don’t be put off by the line at Linari – it’s worth the wait.
Pro tip: Take a gander at the pastry case and then pay for your order before going to the counter.
Via Marmorata 13
If you want some speciality coffee on your stay in or visit to Testaccio, Tram Depot is the place to get it. The pastries are also excellent, and the setting is adorable – just keep in mind that there’s no bathroom.
Where to eat lunch in Testaccio
Many of the places I’ve suggested for dinner also serve lunch, so if you want a sit-down meal, check them out. Below I’ve listed a couple of places that I think are perfect to go for your mid-day meal.
Entrances on Via Beniamino Franklin, via Alessandro Volta, via Aldo Manuzio, and Via Lorenzo Ghiberti
In the neighborhood with the city’s highest concentration of good food lies the Mercato di Testaccio, which has the highest concentration of the city’s best street-food stalls (although there are many great places for street food scattered around the city).
My number one tip for anyone who is short on time in Rome but wants to try some of the best food that the city has to offer is to eat lunch at the Mercato di Testaccio.
Some of my favorites are Food Box for fritti, Mordi e Vai for sandwiches, and Altro for pasta. To be fair, I (unfortunately) haven’t had the pleasure of eating at every stall, so I’m sure there are others that are great, too.
Share your favorite in the comments if you’ve got one!
Via Giovanni Branca 88
Invented by local chef Stefano Callegari, who helms multiple restaurants in town, the Trapizzino is a tramezzino made out of pizza bianca.
For those who might be unfamiliar, tramezzini are triangular white bread sandwiches with the crusts cut off. They’re sold at bars and generally eaten as a snack. They come with relatively unremarkable fillings like tuna and tomato, hard-boiled egg, salami, etc. I don’t mind an occasional tramezzino, but sometimes they come with mayonnaise, and if you know me, you know that mayonnaise is my number one hate food, so I generally steer clear of them. Nothing worse than a sneaky glob of mayo (actually, pastries that look like they have chocolate chips that turn out to be raisins are worse).
TraPIZZINI are a whole different ball game. I do NOT avoid trapizzini, in fact, I run headlong into them, especially the ones containing chicken cacciatore or meatballs. Yes, these crunchy pizza pockets come with a variety of fillings.
Where to go for aperitivo in Testaccio
Via Galvani 39
I have so many fond memories of aperitivi at Masto. The wine selection is excellent and their taglieri (meat and cheese boards) are some of the best in town.
The staff is another reason why I love Masto. Owner Rita is a joy – she makes everyone feel at home, no matter where you’ve come from or how long you’re in Rome for.
Piazza dell’Emprorio 1
Any natural wine lovers reading this? Vinificio is the place for you! With its cool, modern interior, extensive wine list and great nibbles, it’s the perfect place to whet your appetite before dinner.
Piazza Testaccio 39
If you want the true Testaccio experience, you must get takeaway drinks from Oasi della Birra and grab yourself a bench around the Piazza di Testaccio.
In the evening, the square fills with families. While kids cycle, scoot, and run around the central fountain, parents enjoy a chat and a drink on the sidelines.
The piazza has a small village feel, despite being in the center of Rome. Having an aperitivo there is one of my favorite ways to spend an evening.
Via Mastro Giorgio 58-60
Just off the Piazza Testaccio, this is another great place to grab a drink. Sit inside or plant yourself in the piazza to watch local life go by.
Where to eat dinner in Testaccio
Like I said above, if you’re looking for a sit-down lunch, many of these places will be open – check Google and/or social media accounts for hours.
Via di Monte Testaccio 97
Flavio is one of my favorite restaurants in Rome. I’ve never had a bad meal there. ICYMI, I’ve written an entire post about my love for Flavio, and I’ve mentioned their tiramisù more in my life than may be strictly appropriate, but I LOVE IT AND I’M NOT SORRY.
Via Galvani 18
Recently renovated and expanded, Osteria degli Amici is another hit on my list of places to eat in Testaccio. Their classics are great, as are their specialities.
Via di Monte Testaccio 30
As I mentioned above, Testaccio is the place to go to try Rome’s offal-centric dishes, and in my opinion, Checchino does them right.
If you’re slightly squeamish or just not super into the idea of eating brains or testicles, go for the pasta with oxtail sauce – sugo di coda alla vaccinara – it’s the best in town, in my book.
Trattoria da Oio
Via Galvani 41
Who would have ever thought I’d get to write a post that allowed me to mention chicken cacciatore twice? Well, here we are, because da Oio serves up an excellent plate of it.
Many visitors to Rome wonder where the chicken is. It’s true that it’s not as ubiquitous on menus in Rome as it is in the US or other countries. If you’re craving it, head to da Oio for your fix.
And while you’re there, have some meatballs and any of their Roman pasta dishes (all done well).
Via Marmorata 39
The first time I went to Perilli, I was charmed by its old-school vibe. The waiters wore ties and there were bucolic scenes of old Rome on the wall.
The charmed feeling grew as I munched down on some of the best gricia I’ve ever had.
I’ve been many times since then, and I can tell you that Perilli is a sure bet.
Via Galvani 24A
Located across from the Mercato di Testaccio and just a hop, skip and a jump from the Mattatoio, Angelina teeters on high with multiple terraces and decor that pays tribute to the slaughterhouse. The small terraced areas are open year-round, and the dining room bustles under low lights at dinner.
After not going for years, I recently had an excellent dinner at Angelina. The mixed appetizer was a meal in and of itself, and the lasagna I ordered was made with a rich ragù studded with hunks of tender beef.
Sticking to the slaughterhouse theme, Angelina specializes in grilled meats, but there’s something for everyone on the menu.
Il Collettivo Gastronomico di Testaccio
Largo Dino Frisullo 1
It doesn’t get more Testaccio then the Mattatoio, so it only makes sense that there would be a restaurant inside of it (you can get there via the Mattatoio’s main entrance or through the entrance to the Città dell’Altra Economia).
Il Collettivo Gastronomico di Testaccio, is a heavenly place to dine outside on a warm Roman day, both because of the weather and, more importantly, because of the food.
Lungotevere Testaccio 7
The first time I went to Lo Scopettaro, I knew it was legit because it smells like pecorino the minute you walk in the door.
Their carbonara might just be my very favorite in town, but truly, it’s hard to go wrong no matter what you get.
Where to eat pizza in Testaccio
Nuovo Mondo
Via Amerigo Vespucci 9
There are many Insta or Tiktok famous places in Rome that are not worth waiting in line for – Nuovo Mondo is NOT one of them. Pardon this convoluted way of saying that it is worth waiting in line for, either to sit or take away.
I’ve heard good things about Il Grottino for pizza, too, but I’ve never been.
So, do you hate me for not including your favorite restaurant in Testaccio on my list? Leave a comment below and let’s see if you can change my mind!
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